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TOP
Patek Philippe Blue French Diamond Ruby Enamel Platinum Bird...
R 166 374
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
27
US
TOP
Patek Philippe 1830 Hunting Case Enamel "Flower Girl"Motif...
Price on request
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
27
US
TOP
Bulgari BVLGARI 102456
R 85 022
Verified Dealer
12
HK
TOP
Van Cleef & Arpels 1990s 18k Gold Pave Diamond Dial & Sapphire...
Price on request
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
27
US
TOP
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Diamond Set
R 193 157
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
441
UK
TOP
F.P.Journe Octa Lune LN G 38 A
R 558 865
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
648
US
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
R 333 604
Private Seller
ZA
TOP
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph
R 899 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne 1 Daymatic 18K Gold Wochentag Automatik Big...
R 449 805
Verified Dealer
546
DE
TOP
Bulgari BBW 33 GL SK collector
R 64 974
Verified Dealer
38
CH
TOP
Rolex Datejust 31, new, closing down sale - off. pr. 37.700 CHF
R 379 901
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
Cartier Like New Tank Louis de Yellow Gold 18kt 23mm Quartz...
R 58 227
Verified Dealer
409
ES
TOP
Breguet Classique
R 181 499
Private Seller
ZA
TOP
Piaget Fully Loaded 15301
R 727 980
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
441
UK
TOP
Rolex Ladies 18k White Gold Cellini Geneve 3008 Hand-Wind,...
R 40 837
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
564
US
Vacheron Constantin 31mm CLASSIQUES Gangreserve Rosegold
R 69 972
Verified Dealer
39
DE
TOP
Omega Doublesigned: Bahrain / Saudi Seamaster in Rose Pink Gold
R 113 975
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph
R 199 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Piaget Possession 34 mm
R 141 944
Verified Dealer
735
UK
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust, new, closing sale - official price 32.000...
R 303 917
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
Cartier Like New Box + Papers Ladies Yellow Gold Tank Américaine
R 64 891
Verified Dealer
409
ES
TOP
Zenith Defy El Primero 21
R 470 336
Verified Dealer
286
CH
TOP
Breguet Le Reveil Du Tsar 5707BA/12/9V6
R 270 809
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
441
UK
TOP
Patek Philippe AQUANAUT TRAVEL TIME WATCH 5164R-001
R 1 073 852
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
15
US
Patek Philippe Travel Time
R 750 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Phidias GMT World Time, Full Set
R 159 565
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Rolex Cellini Date
R 139 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Moonphase
R 239 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Breguet Marine 35, new, closing sale - official price 64.300 CHF
R 562 260
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
Cartier Tank Paris Américaine Mini 18kt Yellow Gold Quartz Ladies
R 81 551
Verified Dealer
409
ES
TOP
Omega Geneve vintage 14K Solid Gold 1968 with box
R 19 975
Verified Dealer
52
HU
TOP
Cartier Ballon Bleu chronograph rose gold 44mm
R 229 469
Verified Dealer
124
CH
Lemania Troy AAC 18k Gold Cal 4651 Automatic Watch
R 18 150
Verified Dealer
ZA
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
R 825 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Thin Vintage Classic
R 53 188
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Rolex Datejust
R 224 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
Breitling Chronomat
R 199 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster 29, closing sale, o.p. 78.400 CHF
R 729 423
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
Ebel Vintage Or jaune 18k
R 25 834
Verified Dealer
49
CH
TOP
Roger Dubuis Golden Square 37mm DBGS0322
R 178 474
Verified Dealer
11
US
TOP
Girard Perregaux WW.TC Financial Chrono Or 18kt.
R 203 635
Verified Dealer
124
CH
Lemania Troy 'Retailer Commissioned' 18k Gold Chronograph CH27
R 39 325
Verified Dealer
ZA
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
R 880 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Zenith Grande Class Grande Date Rattrapante, Split Second,...
R 201 355
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Hublot Big Bang 38 mm
R 195 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
Rolex Prince
R 179 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36, new, closing sale - official price 46.000 CHF
R 463 482
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Merite
Price on request
Verified Dealer
89
CH
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Lady
R 496 096
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
22
US
TOP
Chopard Classic
R 37 536
Verified Dealer
124
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre 18k Rose Gold Tear Drop Lugs P449
R 27 225
Verified Dealer
ZA
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
R 315 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
IWC Extra Plat Pre-DaVinci NOS, Full Set
R 136 770
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
R 79 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz
R 189 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 34, new, closing sale - o.p. 31.600...
R 296 319
Verified Dealer
29
CH
TOP
Rolex Datejust
Price on request
Verified Dealer
89
CH
Omega Constellation
R 87 358
Verified Dealer
35
UK
Patek Philippe Grand Complication Minute Repeater Tourbillion
R 7 562 446
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
67
US
Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref 3848/1 18K Box and Papers
R 102 849
Verified Dealer
ZA
Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic
R 189 000
Verified Dealer
ZA
TOP
Longines Historical Pocket Watch Chronograph
R 35 560
Verified Dealer
15
CH
Rolex Day-Date 36
R 229 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
Patek Philippe Gondola
R 179 999
Verified Dealer
ZA
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.