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Zenith Elite
TOP
Zenith Elite
R 94,579
Seller
STENSTRUP Watches & Jewellery
11
DK
Ulysse Nardin MARINE LADY DIVER
TOP
Ulysse Nardin MARINE LADY DIVER
R 123,050
Seller
Premium Lombard
RU
Omega Globemaster
TOP
Omega Globemaster
R 180,956
Seller
Haute Horologe
AE
Franck Muller Conquistador
TOP
Franck Muller Conquistador
R 178,929
Seller
ВИПЛОМБАРД- VIPLOMBARD.RU
RU
Omega Constellation Manhattan Diamonds, Pave, Super Rare
TOP
Omega Constellation Manhattan Diamonds, Pave, Super Rare
R 237,601
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Franck Muller MASTER SQUARE
TOP
Franck Muller MASTER SQUARE
R 225,028
Seller
Montecarlo Jewels&Watches
 
MC
Omega Geneve
Omega Geneve
R 7,000
Seller
Private Seller
ZA
Chopard Impériale Chronograph 18K Weißgold 3,24 CT Brillanten...
TOP
Chopard Impériale Chronograph 18K Weißgold 3,24 CT Brillanten...
R 237,286
Seller
Uhrenkapital
356
DE
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic
R 546,940
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
481
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava
R 298,081
Seller
Bijouterie-Horlogerie Langel
58
CH
IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club 18K / 750  Gold mens watch + Box
TOP
IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club 18K / 750 Gold mens watch + Box
R 92,579
Seller
Fine Auction Club
235
UK
Omega Constellation deluxe 18 ct gold
TOP
Omega Constellation deluxe 18 ct gold
R 73,985
Seller
The Watch Collector Ltd.
91
UK
Cartier Dragon Limited Edition Crw000307 White Gold 43mm
TOP
Cartier Dragon Limited Edition Crw000307 White Gold 43mm
R 1,944,007
Seller
Taleda
409
CH
Longines UltraChron
TOP
Longines UltraChron
R 50,400
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Rose Gold Box & Documens
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Rose Gold Box & Documens
R 325,677
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesNorte
119
ES
Rolex Day-Date President
TOP
Rolex Day-Date President
R 180,000
Seller
Private Seller
ZA
Jacob & Co. EPIC X CHRONO Rose Gold case & Red Dial
TOP
Jacob & Co. EPIC X CHRONO Rose Gold case & Red Dial
R 258,577
Seller
Riginov bvba
 
BE
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
R 218,154
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
481
UK
Sinn 2200 22Kt Gold Chronograph limitiert DER GOLDCHRONOGRAPH
TOP
Sinn 2200 22Kt Gold Chronograph limitiert DER GOLDCHRONOGRAPH
R 106,377
Seller
Classic Watch
24
DE
Chopard Happy Diamonds 18K Gold Handaufzug 24mm
TOP
Chopard Happy Diamonds 18K Gold Handaufzug 24mm
R 32,649
Seller
T&N "Glücksschmiede" GmbH
767
DE
Omega chronometer rated cal 333 RG
TOP
Omega chronometer rated cal 333 RG
R 48,058
Seller
The Watch Collector Ltd.
91
UK
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Biretrogrado 86020 Rose Gold 42.5mm
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Biretrogrado 86020 Rose Gold 42.5mm
R 525,602
Seller
Taleda
409
CH
Blancpain Villeret Doppelchronograph / Rattrapante / Split Second
TOP
Blancpain Villeret Doppelchronograph / Rattrapante / Split Second
R 122,400
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Zenith EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969
TOP
Zenith EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969
R 206,207
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
55
MC
Michel Herbelin Cable
Michel Herbelin Cable
R 2,500
Seller
Private Seller
ZA
Richard Mille RM 011 03 Rose Gold TI
TOP
Richard Mille RM 011 03 Rose Gold TI
R 3,430,911
Free shipping
Seller
Express Watches
7
US
Chopard d'oro Luna 'Perpetual Calendar' Retrograde moonphase,...
TOP
Chopard d'oro Luna 'Perpetual Calendar' Retrograde moonphase,...
R 207,844
Seller
Vintage Times Amsterdam
35
NL
Piaget Rare 1970s Lilly Flower 18kt Diamond Sapphire Bracelet...
TOP
Piaget Rare 1970s Lilly Flower 18kt Diamond Sapphire Bracelet...
R 123,050
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
21
US
Franck Muller Galet
Franck Muller Galet
R 135,000
Seller
The Diamond Channel
ZA
Chopard Ultra Flat Date Automatic 18K Yellow Gold 40 MM - 161278
TOP
Chopard Ultra Flat Date Automatic 18K Yellow Gold 40 MM - 161278
R 70,372
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
210
NL
Breguet Type XXII Flyback Gmt 3880br/z2/9xv Rose Gold 44mm
TOP
Breguet Type XXII Flyback Gmt 3880br/z2/9xv Rose Gold 44mm
R 324,001
Seller
Taleda
409
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre James Picard, Minute Repeater
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre James Picard, Minute Repeater
R 68,400
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
F.P.Journe Souveraine Tourbillon
TOP
F.P.Journe Souveraine Tourbillon
Price on request
Seller
INEICHEN
40
CH
H.Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch Small Seconds Fumé Weissgold
TOP
H.Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch Small Seconds Fumé Weissgold
R 258,414
Seller
chronostars
12
AT
Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H37 560 rose gold
TOP
Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H37 560 rose gold
R 407,428
Free shipping
Seller
A Collected Man
12
UK
Patek Philippe Gondolo 18K gold box and paper
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo 18K gold box and paper
R 171,839
Seller
euro piece d'or
68
FR
Omega seamaster
TOP
Omega seamaster
R 111,286
Seller
OnlyTimeMilano
13
IT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Thin
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Thin
R 104,999
Seller
The Diamond Channel
ZA
Chopard Vintage 18K Solid White Gold Real Diamonds Top Piece
TOP
Chopard Vintage 18K Solid White Gold Real Diamonds Top Piece
R 35,186
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
210
NL
IWC 14K Gold Full Hunter Pocket watch taschenuhr 1910
TOP
IWC 14K Gold Full Hunter Pocket watch taschenuhr 1910
R 28,624
Seller
qualityextra
14
HU
Rolex Oman Cellini, Diamonds & Sapphire, Super Rare
TOP
Rolex Oman Cellini, Diamonds & Sapphire, Super Rare
R 252,001
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Rolex GMT-Master II 116759SARU june 2020 Rolex warranty
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II 116759SARU june 2020 Rolex warranty
R 1,047,402
Seller
MMC RIVIERA
6
MC
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual 18k Weissgold Fumé
TOP
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual 18k Weissgold Fumé
R 544,976
Seller
chronostars
12
AT
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Ref. 82035/000R-...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Ref. 82035/000R-...
R 342,610
Free shipping
Seller
A Collected Man
12
UK
Rolex GMT-Master II 116758SARU
Rolex GMT-Master II 116758SARU
R 2,129,739
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
244
UK
Piaget Classic Diamond
TOP
Piaget Classic Diamond
R 969,779
Seller
Melvyn Franks Luxury Watches
14
US
Chopard Ice Cube
Chopard Ice Cube
R 69,000
Seller
The Diamond Channel
ZA
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine
R 252,001
Free shipping
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
9
CH
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1815
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1815
R 130,925
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
319
DE
IWC 2070 Oman, Full Set, New Old Stock, Very Rare
TOP
IWC 2070 Oman, Full Set, New Old Stock, Very Rare
R 108,000
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Rolex GMT-Master II 116758SARU with 2 years warranty
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II 116758SARU with 2 years warranty
R 1,129,230
Seller
MMC RIVIERA
6
MC
H.Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds 18k Rotgold Fumé
TOP
H.Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds 18k Rotgold Fumé
R 207,353
Seller
chronostars
12
AT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm
R 252,031
Seller
OROeORA PRINTEZIS
87
GR
Breguet Classique
Breguet Classique
R 63,892
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
244
UK
Frederique Constant Slimline Tourbillon
Frederique Constant Slimline Tourbillon
R 392,694
Free shipping
Seller
Reijersen Juweliers
 
NL
Hublot Classic Fusion
Hublot Classic Fusion
R 179,999
Seller
The Diamond Channel
ZA
IWC Portofino
TOP
IWC Portofino
R 169,921
Free shipping
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
9
CH
Patek Philippe Worldtimer
Patek Philippe Worldtimer
R 1,513,823
Free shipping
Seller
A. Grimmeissen Uhren An- und Verkauf
319
DE
Gérald Genta Perpetual Calendar Automatic, Rare
TOP
Gérald Genta Perpetual Calendar Automatic, Rare
R 115,200
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Rolex Submariner 1680/8 Black dial
TOP
Rolex Submariner 1680/8 Black dial
R 507,335
Seller
MMC RIVIERA
6
MC
Chopard Superfast
Chopard Superfast
R 189,000
Seller
Topwatch SA Pty Ltd
ZA
Richard Mille RM 030 Rose/tit Custom diamonds
TOP
Richard Mille RM 030 Rose/tit Custom diamonds
R 3,112,443
Free shipping
Seller
In Time NYC
 
US
Rolex Day-Date 18238
Rolex Day-Date 18238
R 194,454
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
244
UK
Moritz Grossmann BENU Tourbillon, white gold
Straight from the manufacturer
Moritz Grossmann BENU Tourbillon, white gold
R 2,863,990
BrandBoutique Member
Grossmann Uhren GmbH
  • 30
  • 60
  • 120

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.

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