Created in 1963 by Jack Heuer, the great-grandson of company founder Edouard Heuer, the TAG Heuer Carrera has become one of the icons of Swiss luxury watchmaking. Jack Heuer named the model after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, which was once considered one of the most dangerous road races in the world. The Carrera was intended to be a robust, easy-to-read chronograph for racing enthusiasts. At the beginning of August 2024, the manufacturer from La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, presented a total of six new Carrera variants, all of which belong to the “Carrera Extreme Sport” sub-collection. Four models are equipped with the Carrera’s signature chronograph function, while two feature a tourbillon. What all the new models have in common is a diameter of 44 mm and a lug to lug of 49.7 mm. The case is a little over 15 mm thick. The timepieces feature a new integrated rubber strap with a double-folding clasp, inspired by the air intake systems of racing cars. The new models share an unusual material mix, with titanium as the base metal. Typical of Carrera chronographs is the fixed bezel with a tachymeter scale, which in the Extreme Sport collection is made of ceramic, gold, or carbon, depending on the model. The in-house calibers are skeletonized and have a nickel anthracite coating (NAC). This nickel-base surface finish imparts an anthracite color to components coated with it. This coating is also applied to the skeletonized dials of the tourbillon models. The applied, rhodium-plated hour markers glow in the dark. The skeletonization renders most of the movement and bridges visible. Jack Heuer’s original idea with the Carrera was to offer a clearly structured, legible chronograph, but this isn’t the case with the new Carrera Extreme Sport models – many secondary aspects distract from the chronograph’s basic functions.
While the in-house caliber TH20-00 sets the pace in the regular chronographs, the two tourbillon models are powered by the caliber TH20-09. Both movements are based on the Heuer 02 and are certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). The back of each caliber can be viewed through a sapphire crystal case back. With water resistance up to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft), the Carrera Extreme Sport need not fear water. Let’s take a closer look at each reference.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport
The four chronographs in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport collection feature the classic tricompax layout with subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The minute counter is located at 3, opposite the hour counter. At the 6 o’clock position, above the date window, a small seconds hand makes its rounds. The caliber TH20-00 offers an 80-hour power reserve. The Chronograph Extreme Sport Orange (ref. CBU2082.FT6275) is particularly striking. This model features an orange rubber strap, date disk, stop-seconds hand, and ring on the crown. According to TAG Heuer, the color symbolizes the heat and speed of the race track. The case of the watch is made of finely brushed titanium with a black ceramic bezel. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Blue ref. CBU2081.FT6274 features the same components in blue. The watch is otherwise technically identical to the orange version. The official MSRP is 8,200 USD.
Fans of black watches should take a look at the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport ref. CBU2080.FT6272. The case of this variant is also made of titanium, but is completely covered with a black DLC coating. The open-worked dial with a date disk and the rubber strap are also black. A Carrera in stealth mode at a list price of 8,400 USD. The Carrera Extreme Sport ref. CBU2050.FT6273 has an 18-karat 5N rose gold case with a particularly high copper content. High copper content creates an exceptionally intense red tone. Rose gold-colored components can also be found in many other elements, such as the subdials, hands, tachymeter scale, and hour markers. The numbers on the date disk, however, are black. The official MSRP is 12,300 USD.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport
If you’re looking for an ultra-sporty chronograph with a skeletonized dial and integrated tourbillon, TAG Heuer has you covered with one of the two tourbillon versions of the Extreme Sport Chronograph. Ref. CBU5080.FT6272 is similar to the regular chronograph in the series (ref. CBU2080.FT6272) in terms of design and the black-coated case. However, at the 6 o’clock position on the dial, this watch features a tourbillon with a titanium cage that rotates once per minute on its own axis. This is made possible by the no-date caliber TH20-09, which has a 65-hour power reserve. The model is worn on a black rubber strap secured with a folding clasp. The price: 26,100 USD. The highlight of the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Tourbillon collection is the ref. CBU5050.FT6273. The case and bezel of this timepiece are made of 18-karat 5N rose gold, while the crown and chronograph pushers are made of black-coated titanium. The subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as the hands, indices and tourbillon cage, are also the same color as the case. The rose gold variant is also fitted with a black rubber strap, which in this case has a rose gold folding clasp. TAG Heuer’s official list price for this model is 32,800 USD.
Watch Lovers React
With the launch of the news in various forums, real and self-proclaimed watch experts appeared on the scene to share their opinions on the new Carrera Extreme Sport models. On the whole, reactions have been mixed. Approximately 75% of watch enthusiasts feel that the design of the watches is over the top and not suitable for a wider customer base. Many people no longer find it easy to read the time on these new models, due to the skeletonized dials and the visible date disk on non-tourbillon models. Some even find the look of the watches to be cheap and unnecessarily pompous.
Summary
With the six new models in the Carrera Extreme Sport collection, TAG Heuer presented a series of technically sophisticated chronographs with interesting material combinations. For all their attention to detail and technical sophistication, however, the watches lack a clear visual design structure that allows the timepieces to be read quickly and easily. This is not how Jack Heuer envisioned the original Carrera, which explains why the new models are so controversial among watch enthusiasts and Carrera purists. Still, these models will find buyers – as long as the price is right.
