Old vs. New Models: The Rolex Submariner Comparison

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most popular and recognizable watches in the world. It’s been an absolute classic since 1954 and is constantly being reissued. Time to take a closer look at the old and new Submariner models.

Special Features of the Rolex Submariner

Like every Rolex collection, the Submariner has a few distinguishing features that make all models – vintage or brand new – unmistakable. First and foremost, this includes the unidirectional rotating diving bezel with its luminous dot at 12 o’clock and its 60-minute scale. The Submariner also features a dial with luminescent hour markers. These luminous indices are designed as bars at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, as a downward-pointing triangle at 12, and as dots on all other hour markers. The watch’s Mercedes hands are also coated with luminous material. Furthermore, the Rolex Submariner is only available with the tried-and-tested Oyster bracelet. In modern versions, the Glidelock clasp ensures that the strap can be extended by up to 20 mm within seconds and adjusted based on your clothing. This means that the Submariner can be worn over a diving suit without any problems.

The Submariner 6204 sets new standards

Vintage Rolex Submariner ref. 6204

When the Rolex Submariner was first presented to the public at the watch fair in Basel in 1954, it was not Rolex’s first water-resistant watch. However, it did set new standards with its water resistance of 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). Rolex continued to increase the water resistance of the Submariner over the years. Current models are water-resistant to a depth of 300 meter (30 bar, 984 feet). Ref. 6204 is generally regarded as the very first Submariner, with production beginning in 1953. Shortly after the 6204, Rolex released the 6205 and 6200 references. All three model variants were only produced for just over a year, which makes them sought-after collector’s items today. In contrast to modern versions of the Submariner, these early models are significantly smaller with a diameter of 37 mm. At the time, Rolex used the automatic calibers A260 and A296 as the drive. The Geneva-based manufacturer did not include a date function.

The Sub in the New Millennium

The Submariner has been the subject of continuous development over the years. The Sub as we know it today has a case diameter of 40 or 41 mm, is available in Date and No-Date versions, and is only offered on an Oyster bracelet with Glidelock safety clasp. There are several variations that differ in color and material. Below we present an overview of the most important Submariner models.

The Classics: Submariner Date & No-Date

Purists are best advised to choose a Submariner model without a date display. Take, for example, ref. 114060, which was produced from 2012 to 2020. It has a 40-mm “Super Case” made of stainless steel, in which the automatic caliber 3130 ticks with a 48-hour power reserve. The bezel is made of black Cerachrom and matches the black dial perfectly. The timepiece is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft), and the unidirectional rotating bezel makes it a highly functional sports watch.

Rolex Submariner, ref. 116610LN

If you’d prefer a watch with a date function, check out the Submariner Date ref. 116610LN. The only difference between it and ref. 114060 is the caliber 3135, which features the aforementioned date display. In 2020, the Submariner collection underwent a redesign. The case grew by one millimeter to 41 mm. Thanks to the slimmer lugs, however, the new models look less bulky than their Maxi Case predecessors. Rolex also gave the watches newer movements. The new caliber 3230 is used in the no-date ref. 124060, while the caliber 3235 powers the date variants like the new ref. 126610LN. The popular Oyster bracelet has also been overhauled and is now flatter and slightly wider. This makes the bracelet even more comfortable to wear.

It’s So Green: Kermit, Hulk, and Starbucks

Rolex first introduced a Submariner with green color accents in 2003 with the ref. 16610LV. More precisely, it was the bezel that Rolex fitted with a green aluminum insert. The green bezel contrasts beautifully with the black Maxi Dial, which, in contrast to earlier versions, has slightly larger indices. As a special version for the 50th birthday of the Submariner, the model was nicknamed the “Kermit” and quickly became immensely popular. Powered by the caliber 3135, the Submariner 16610LV promised exceptional design paired with outstanding quality. In 2010, however, the Kermit had to make way for the ref. 116610LV. The new watch was quickly given the nickname “Hulk,” partly because of its green ceramic bezel and green sunburst dial, and partly because of its massive Maxi Case. However, the caliber and the basic design of the Submariner were retained. Initially ridiculed and denounced as too garish, the Hulk quickly became a crowd favorite. The watch was a regular part of the Rolex range from 2010 to summer 2020, when it was replaced by the ref. 126610LV.

Rolex Submariner “Hulk”

The reference 126610LV was released in summer 2020 and combines the color scheme of the Kermit with the features of the Hulk. The dial is once again a black Maxi Dial, but the bezel insert is made of green ceramic. Due to its color, the watch is also known among Rolex fans as the “Starbucks.” The nickname “Cermit” – from “ceramic” and “Kermit” – is also in use. As part of the redesign, Rolex also gave the new green Submariner the current 41-mm case and the new caliber 3235, like the standard version of the Submariner Date.

The Rolesor Submariner Models: Bluesy, Sulta & Co.

For those who find the steel Submariner models a little lacking but the all-gold models a little too much of a good thing, Rolex has been offering Submariner models in Rolesor design since 1983. These watches are distinguished by their fusion of steel and gold, providing a sporty alternative to a dress watch that is also suitable for everyday wear. The second generation of the Rolesor Submariner was launched in 1988 and bears the reference number 16613. In addition to the standard black version, Rolex also offered some interesting color variants, such as a version with a blue bezel and blue dial. Another interesting and now quite rare design are watches with a “Sultan Dial.” This dial is champagne-colored and shines with sapphire indices at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, while the remaining indices are made of diamonds. The entire collection of reference 16613 disappeared in 2009, but its successor collection was waiting in the wings in the form of references 116613LB (Lunette Bleue) and 116613LN (Lunette Noire). The watches are equipped with a 40-mm Maxi Case, a ceramic bezel, and the caliber 3135. The blue version is affectionately called “Bluesy” by fans. Note that the nickname “Bluesy” refers to the deep blue dial and is used for all Rolesor Submariner models with a blue dial, regardless of the reference.

Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126613LB

Just as we saw with the other Submariner models, Rolex also modernized the Rolesor variants of the diving watch in 2020. They now bear the reference numbers 126613LB and 126613LN and are characterized by a 41-mm case and the caliber 3235.

Golden Times for the Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is already a real status symbol in steel. If you want to go one better, opt for a version with an 18-karat gold case and bracelet. With these models, you can also choose between a black or blue bezel and dial and decide whether the watch should be made of yellow or white gold. If you want to bring the sun to your wrist, reach for a model like the Submariner 116618LB or 116618LN. Both models are made of solid yellow gold and feature a Maxi Case. Those who like cooler colors will probably prefer ref. 116619LN. This reference is a white gold Submariner with a blue dial and blue bezel, commonly known as the “Smurf.”

Rolex Submariner “Smurf”

In the fall of 2020, these models were also updated. While the yellow gold Submariner refs. 126618LB and 126618LN have hardly changed visually, Rolex has now given the white gold ref. 126619LB a blue bezel and a black dial.

Popular Collector’s Models: Submariner “Single Red” and “Flat Four”

There are certain models in the Submariner collection that enjoy a particularly good reputation among collectors. These are usually vintage models that differ from the “normal” versions in small details. These differences can usually be found on the dial of the watch. This is due to the fact that in the past, Rolex used a variety of suppliers to produce the dials, and they didn’t always adhere 100% to Rolex’s specifications. One such model is the “Single Red” or “Red Sub”, an edition of the Submariner ref. 1680 that features a red “Submariner” inscription on the dial. This variant was produced from around 1968 to 1974. There are six known dial designs of the Red Sub, now referred to as Mark I through Mark VI. These variants differ in minor details such as whether the information for the diving depth appears first in meters (meters first) or feet (feet first) – i.e., “200m = 660ft” or “660ft = 200m.” The shape of the sixes is also worth a closer look, as they can be open or closed. Rolex fans refer to these as “Open Sixes” or “Closed Sixes.”

Submariner “Single Red” with a tropical dial

“Red Subs” with a “tropical dial” are considered the holy grail among collectors. The dial of these watches has taken on a brownish patina over the years. In the case of the “Red Sub,” this phenomenon usually only affects watches with dials from the Mark II and Mark III series. The reason: During the production of these dials, a paint mixture was inadvertently used that reacts to environmental factors such as humidity and sunlight, causing discoloration over time. If you’re interested in this topic, check out our article “Investment Watches: How Visual Flaws Can Add Value,” in which we discuss value-enhancing faults in detail.

Other Collectible Submariner Models

The Red Sub isn’t the only vintage Submariner with high collector potential. The Submariner “Flat Four”, for example, is a particularly rare variant of the Kermit ref. 16610LV. The watch owes its nickname to the way the 40-minute marker on the bezel is designed. The “4” is not pointed, as is the case with most other Submariner models, but is flat at the top. These versions only appeared in the first few months of production, making them extremely rare and highly sought after by collectors.

Rolex Submariner “Flat Four” with an olive green bezel

But these are by no means all the special features of the ref. 16610LV; along with the different fonts on the bezel, there are also differences on the dials. Sometimes the letter “O” is a little rounder, on other models it’s a little more oval. The “ft” in the water resistance specification is sometimes longer, sometimes slightly shorter. The shade of green on the bezel also varies depending on the supplier – from a light olive to a dark green that is almost reminiscent of British racing green.

Rolex Submariner Comparison – An Overview:

Finally, we’ve summarized the most important Rolex Submariner models for you in a table.