The Rolex GMT-Master II is an icon of horology. Embodying the perfect blend of functionality, craftsmanship, and style, it is a watch that gets seasoned collectors and first-time buyers equally excited with its rich history, timeless design, and impact on watch-collecting culture that it is arguably Rolex’s most desirable collection outside of the Daytona, and even the Daytona struggles to compare when you take out the two stainless steel models. So, with the GMT-Master II being on just about every watch collector’s dream list, we thought it would be important to make a list of must-knows that you can consult before making a purchase. With its long history and plethora of different models, variants, materials, movements, designs, and so on, it’s essential to understand what sets each of these watches apart and what to look for when choosing the right Rolex GMT-Master II for you.
1. A Storied History and an Enduring Pop-Culture Legacy
Owing its origins to the civil aviation boom of the 1950s, the Rolex GMT-Master II’s older sibling, the GMT-Master, was introduced in 1954 and developed in collaboration with Pan Am Airways to help their pilots track multiple time zones during their increasingly common transcontinental flights. Its defining feature, which is where it gets its name—a 24-hour hand paired with a rotating bezel—allowed wearers to simultaneously track home and local time—a groundbreaking innovation at the time that was in its infancy. With its red and blue bezel combination and trendy use case, the GMT-Master continued to grow in popularity like so many of Rolex’s other offerings that launched in the 1950s, like the Submariner, Explorer, Milgauss, and others.
In 1983, after almost 30 years of the GMT-Master’s domination, the GMT-Master II debuted, with an independent 24-hour hand for even greater functionality. This evolution marked a new chapter in the model’s history, offering unparalleled convenience for globetrotters and professionals. Boasting a black-and-red bezel and a bulkier case, the ref. 16760, or “Fat Lady,” as it was known thanks to its case,
Over the decades, the GMT-Master II has transcended its utilitarian origins to become an icon of pop culture. Following on from the success of its older sibling, the GMT-Master II enjoyed appearances in movies, TV shows, and on the wrists of celebrities—all of which helped to cement its status as a symbol of sophistication, adventure, and luxury.
2. Vintage vs. Modern Bezels
Like any Rolex model, the GMT-Master II has a defining feature that immediately reveals what it is. For the Milgauss, it’s its lightning-shaped second hand; for the Explorer, it is its 3-6-9 dial; and for the GMT-Master II, it is its bezel.
Available in a variety of color combinations that we will explore later, the main choice when it comes to the GMT-Master II’s bezel is whether you want an aluminum bezel or a ceramic one.
Vintage Bezels (Aluminum):
Older GMT-Master II models from 1983 to 2007 will all feature aluminum bezels, which are lighter, thinner, and more prone to developing a charming patina over time than modern ceramic bezels. Given that they undergo a natural aging process thanks to wear and tear and so on over the years, it is important to note that the colors on an aluminum bezel may fade over time or take on unique hues. Additionally, they can scratch and dent, all of which can add a weathered character and appeal to vintage and neo-vintage examples. Collectors often prize these models for their nostalgic allure and historical significance, but not every collector does. Some collectors prefer like-new bezels, and no material maintains its original aesthetic better than ceramic.
Modern Bezels (Ceramic):
Introduced in 2005, the Cerachrom bezel is made of a ceramic material that is virtually scratch-proof and resistant to fading or denting. While these bezels lack the patina potential of aluminum, they offer unparalleled durability that aluminum and the early Bakelite bezels (as seen on the original GMT-Master ref. 6542) could only dream of.
Added to the GMT-Master II collection in 2007, their vibrant colors remain pristine for decades, and as such, the choice between a ceramic or aluminum bezel is perhaps one of the most important choices a collector could have in deciding which GMT-Master II to buy, so it is important to know their pros and cons.
3. Choosing a Movement
Famous for their robust movements, a Rolex watch is only as good as the caliber that powers it, and the GMT-Master II has seen several upgrades over the years across a quartet of movement generations. As such, if you are exploring your options on which GMT-Master II to buy, it is essential to know which movement that you are getting.
- Calibre 3085: Introduced in the GMT-Master family through the ref. 16760 “Fat Lady” GMT-Master II in 1983, the cal. 3085 was the first movement to power the GMT-Master II collection, and it enabled the collection to have an independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand—a feature that set the GMT-Master II apart from the GMT-Master from before. While no longer in production, watches with the cal. 3085 are popular among vintage enthusiasts given its large departure from the modern movements, but it remained in the GMT-Master II collection for a short 5 years, with the cal. 3185 replacing it.
- Calibre 3185: Introduced to the GMT-Master II collection in 1988 and used until 2007, the cal. 3185 offered improved reliability and performance compared to its predecessor.
- Calibre 3186: Replacing the cal. 3185 in 2007, the cal. 3186 offered the added benefit of swapping the cal. 3185’s Nivarox hairspring with a Parachrom hairspring, offering greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. Its power reserve remains 50 hours, like the cal. 3185, and its general reliability is similar. An easy way to tell if a watch has a cal. 3185 or the cal. 3186 is to see if the GMT hand wobbles when you set the time. The cal. 3185’s wobble was removed in the cal. 3186—an interesting quirk to look out for.
- Calibre 3285: Introduced in 2019, the current-generation GMT-Master II models are powered by the cal. 3285. This movement features Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which enhances energy efficiency and reliability, and an improved 70-hour power reserve.
4. Bezel Variations and Nicknames: A World of Options
The GMT-Master II’s bezel is not just a functional component—it’s also a canvas for creative expression that Rolex has explored several times since the collection’s debut. Over the years, Rolex has introduced a variety of bezel color combinations, many of which have earned playful nicknames from collectors that are often soda-themed. These bezel combinations are likely to be the main aesthetic detail you pay attention to, so be sure to explore all the available options:
- “Pepsi” (Red and Blue): The most iconic bezel combination, the Pepsi is a favorite among purists. It is available in both vintage aluminum and modern ceramic versions and is easily the most desirable, and thus most expensive, of all the options.
- “Batman” (Black and Blue): Introduced in 2013, the Batman bezel features a black-and-blue colorway that has quickly gained a dedicated following thanks to its designation as a modern option.
- “Rootbeer” (Brown and Gold/Brown and Black): A vintage classic, the Rootbeer bezel offers a touch of luxury and warmth. Offered in either all gold or brown-and-gold on vintage models, it is brown-and-black on modern Rootbeer references like the ref. 126711CHNR.
- “Coke” (Red and Black): Another vintage favorite, the Coke bezel delivers a bold and distinctive aesthetic that collectors associate with neo-vintage GMT-Master II references. Be careful, however, as the Coke bezel is available on the ref. 16760, which was designed with a larger case than other neo-vintage GMT-Master II references, and the ref. 16710, which is a typical GMT-Master II neo-vintage reference.
- “Sprite” (Green and Black): Launched in 2022 as a left-handed watch, the Sprite is perhaps the most distinctive and unique GMT-Master II variant.
- “Bruce Wayne” (Black and Gray/Black on Black): Launched in 2024, the Bruce Wayne nickname refers specifically to the latest black-and-gray bezel variant that Rolex added to the collection, but it has grown to include the all-black ceramic bezel that was produced between 2007 and 2019, which is easily the most affordable modern GMT-Master II variant.
5. Bracelet Details: Solid vs. Hollow Links and Clasps
With its variety of generations and references, the GMT-Master II’s bracelet is also subject to a whole host of differences among its array of bracelets. The GMT-Master II is available with two main bracelet styles: the sportier Oyster bracelet with a three-link design and the more elegant Jubilee bracelet with a five-link design. Each offers a unique aesthetic, allowing buyers to choose based on personal preference and occasion. However, beyond the aesthetic differences, the functional differences between hollow vs. solid links do come up.
Hollow Links:
Older GMT-Master II models often feature hollow end links and hollow center links, which make the bracelet lighter and more flexible. While some enthusiasts appreciate the vintage feel of these bracelets, others find them less durable compared to modern designs.
Solid Links:
Modern GMT-Master II bracelets are equipped with solid end links and solid center links, which improve their durability and give the watch a more substantial feel on the wrist thanks to the additional heft. These bracelets are also paired with advanced clasp systems like the Oysterlock and Easylink, which offer added security and adjustability. Additionally, these bracelets do not ‘stretch’ in the same sense as the older bracelets, so be sure you are getting the bracelet and end link you want.
Final Thoughts
The Rolex GMT-Master II is a watch that embodies the spirit of exploration and innovation. With its rich history, diverse bezel options, array of cutting-edge movements, and versatile bracelets, it is a standout choice for collectors and first-time buyers alike. When buying a GMT-Master II, make sure to find out what aspects matter most to you—be it the charm of a vintage aluminum bezel, the durability of a modern ceramic version, or the impressive technical features behind the cal. 3285. By understanding the model’s history, features, and variations, you’ll be well-equipped to make an informed decision.
