Sporty, good-looking, timeless: diving watches are among the most popular watches currently available. However, it doesn’t always have to be a Rolex, Omega, or Breitling. I’ll show you five affordable diving watches that fly completely under the radar, and know how to inspire every watch fan.
What makes a good diving watch?
Before I tell you our five insider tips, let’s do a quick check: What makes for a good diving watch? For me, a beautiful design is something I wouldn’t want to do without. After all, just about nobody really goes diving these days with these timepieces. As functional as they are, for me they truly come down to their great look. A water resistance of at least 200 meters (20 bar, 656 feet) is a must. Not because you need it, but because it’s possible with these watches. In the case of more affordable diving watches, a lack of a state-of-the-art quick-adjustment clasp as seen with Rolex or Omega is not a real issue, even though there should be some kind of possibility for adjustment.
[Bild: Rolex Submariner schwarz]
[Caption:] Let’s look at five affordable diving watches that are on par with Rolex, Omega, and Breitling
1. Squale 1521
When watch enthusiasts talk about iconic diving watches, they immediately think of legendary timepieces such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster 300m. Although the Squale 1521 doesn’t enjoy this kind of legendary status, in my opinion it’s still an iconic diver’s watch that fans in particular will appreciate. The history of the independent manufacturer is impressive: Squale was not officially founded until 1959, even while Squale founder Charles von Büren was already assembling watches under his own name at the end of the 1940s. During the sixties and seventies, Squale provided its cases to other watch manufacturers, including well-known names such as Doxa, Sinn, TAG Heuer, and even Blancpain. The Squale 1521 can be understood as the most popular model in the watchmaker’s catalog. This diver is available in different dial colors, in steel, as well as with a PVD coating. It has a diameter of 42 mm, and is compact and comfortable to wear thanks to its relatively short lugs. The Squale 1521 with the legendary von Büren case and 4 o’clock crown has an automatic movement from Sellita, and is water-resistant to 500 meters (50 bar, 1,640 feet). Particularly interesting: The diving watch from the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland is available for right around $1,000.
2. YEMA Superman Slim
For our next relatively unknown diving watch, let’s shoot over to France for a moment or two. There is an independent watch brand there that has a great tradition and history and that, like Squale, tends to fly under the radar: YEMA. The watch manufacturer has been in existence since 1948. With the Superman, which has been around since 1967, YEMA has a genuine diver legend in its catalog that impresses with its unique design, while also knowing how to technically inspire. YEMA now also offers its watches with in-house movements, including the YEMA Superman Slim which I would like to introduce here. It comes with a never-before-seen in-house micro-rotor automatic movement. The case of the watch and the strap are also uniquely designed, and very impressive. The very recent YEMA Superman Slim is available from around $2,400. Listings for it on Chrono24 are currently few and far between. However, the standard version of the YEMA Superman is available in a wide range of variations and can be found for around $1,000. It’s well worth a look, even if you have to do without an in-house movement.
3. SERICA 5303
The following diving watch also comes from a French independent watch brand from Paris, which I got to know and experience a few months ago. The SERICA 5303. This diver’s watch offers a design that you won’t see anyplace else. The minimalist dial, which has no brand logo and a unique layout, immediately catches the eye. Almost more impressive is the fine workmanship and quality of this 39-mm diver’s watch. The feel of the ceramic diver’s bezel in particular is extremely similar to that of well-known brands such as Rolex or Tudor. The technical side also has nothing to hide from the big names: Its SoProd movement is COSC-certified, anti-magnetic, and impresses with excellent precision. The watch is currently available in both black and white. However, the most visually exciting variant is the so-called crystal blue model. I’ve never seen this color scheme in the watch world before. The black dial upon closer inspection reveals itself as an extremely dark navy blue in the sunlight, perfectly matching the crystal blue bezel, which often appears as more of a muted mud green. The complete package of unique design, great quality, and remarkable technology is unmatched in this price range. It’s hard to believe that this diving watch costs well under $2,000, both officially and on the open market. Of all the watches presented, the SERICA 5303 is my personal favorite, and a diver’s watch that is still flying under the radar. I hope it becomes a hit among the watch community. Keep an eye out for our full brand portrait of SERICA, which will be published here soon.
4. Tudor Pelagos
I know, I know: the Tudor Pelagos doesn’t really fly under the radar. It’s probably the best-known diving watch in this article. Although it should be familiar to every watch fan, it’s clearly overshadowed by the popular Tudor Black Bay. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t deserve a place on this list. Made from titanium, this 42-mm underdog is extremely functional, and one of the best diving watches on the market. In contrast to the Tudor Black Bay, the unidirectional rotating bezel here is made of ceramic. You of course still get the vintage look and excellent feel and operation that you’ve come to expect from Tudor. On top of that, the entire bezel is lumed. The diving watch is water-resistant to 500 meters (50 bar, 1,640 feet) and has an automatic in-house movement. A major highlight is its patented clasp, which can not only be adjusted in two ways, but also automatically adapts to the wrist when it gets warmer or colder. A nice little extra is the rubber strap included in the full set – something we often sorely miss in watches today. Whether in black, blue, or as a left-handed version, the Tudor Pelagos is available from just over $3,500. It’s a great, affordable diver’s watch that deserves much more attention.
5. Sense U1
Just recently, the German manufacturer from Frankfurt proved once again with the limited edition Sinn U15, U16, and U18 that it not only builds outstanding pilot’s watches, but excellent diving watches as well. Today, however, I want to introduce you to another watch from Sinn: The Sinn U1. This massive diver’s watch is made of extremely strong German submarine steel. The Tegiment material makes the watch case even more resistant to scratches. This diver is completely designed for functionality. With a diameter of 44 mm, it comes across as pretty brute. The dial, indices, hour, minute, and second hands ensure perfect legibility even under water. The diver’s bezel can be easily operated with gloves, its 4 o’clock crown prevents it from pressing into the back of the hand, and the water resistance is an impressive 1,000 meters (100 bar, 3,280 feet). As with the Sinn 556, a 200-1 Sellita movement is used in this uncompromising diver’s watch. If the Sinn U1 is too bulky for you, the U50 might be a more suitable alternative. With a diameter of 41 mm, this version of the diver’s watch is somewhat more suitable for everyday use. Currently, unworn examples of the Sinn U1 can be found for under $2,000.
