Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

The Glashütte Original Pano collection is one of this Saxon manufacturer's most successful lines of watches. Left-of-center hour and minute displays and a small seconds dial characterize these watches. Depending on the model, the right side of the dial features a date window, moon phase display, or power reserve indicator. Since the dial is designed according to the golden ratio, the final product feels very harmonious.

The PanoMaticLunar is a particularly popular model within the Pano collection. It premiered in 2003 and has been part of the Glashütte Original catalog ever since. The automatic in-house caliber 90-02 powers this watch and provides it with an intricate moon phase display at 2 o'clock, and a panorama date display at 4. A layer of luminous SuperLuminova on the hour and minute hands means it's always easy to tell the time—even in the dark.

The 90-02 combines traditional Glashütte craftsmanship with modern watch design. On the one hand, it has the typical striped three-quarter plate. On the other, it has a three-quarter rotor, an unusual feature for Glashütte watches. The balance cock is also far from traditional. It sits beneath a finely decorated balance bridge, which itself includes two swan neck fine adjusters. When fully wound, this movement boasts a power reserve of 42 hours. An extra large sapphire glass case back offers a stunning view of the caliber at work.

Each dial comes from the company's own dial manufacturer in Pforzheim. It takes up to 40 steps to guarantee the near-perfect quality of every dial. The 40-mm case is available in 18-karat red gold or stainless steel and is water resistant to 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft). A band made of either Louisiana alligator leather or stainless steel keeps the PanoMaticLunar on the wrist.

The PanoMaticLunar comes in a wide variety of designs. Models with a red gold case have an especially classic feel. Gold hands and indices on a shimmering matte dial in silvery white only enhance this already elegant timepiece. Red gold watches with a matte black dial are perhaps even more exquisite. Regardless of the dial color, be prepared to spend around 16,500 USD on a gold PanoMaticLunar from the current collection. Prices for pre-owned pieces begin around 14,000 USD.

If you prefer sportier watches, you should take a closer look at the stainless steel PanoMaticLunar models. Here you can choose from various dial colors. In addition to silvery white, the dials are also available in a silky gray or deep blue. Every version features contrasting hands: Watches with a white dial have tempered blue hands, while the other models have hands made of satin-brushed stainless steel. Plan to spend about 8,100 USD on a mint-condition timepiece with a matching black, gray, or blue strap. Versions with a three-piece link stainless steel bracelet cost some 1,100 USD more. Pre-owned pieces on a leather strap demand around 7,300 USD. Those with a steel bracelet are rather difficult to find on the pre-owned market.

Older PanoMaticLunar models pose a more affordable alternative to the current collection. You can recognize these watches by their wider bezels and slightly different dial design. While they have the same asymmetrical layout, they feel a bit more modern thanks to the contrasting background of both the minute scale on the main time display and the small seconds scale. You can purchase a well-maintained stainless steel model for as little as 6,500 USD. Pieces with a gold case sell for around 10,500 USD. Never-worn watches cost only slightly less than their successors, ranging from 7,900 USD for the steel edition to 15,500 USD for a gold timepiece.

The PanoMatic Luna was designed with women in mind. Its dial layout and technology are the same as the men's models. However, differences arise in the finer details. Mother-of-pearl dials in soft pink, light blue, soft white, or shimmering gray-green lend this watch a feminine touch. What's more, 64 diamonds adorn the bezel and transform this timepiece into a true thing of beauty. The date window is also different and shaped like an oval. This 39.4-mm stainless steel watch is worn on a matching alligator leather or rubber strap.

You can get a mint-condition PanoMatic Luna on a leather strap starting around 14,000 USD. Those with a rubber strap cost about 1,100 more. Depending on the dial color, pre-owned models demand between 10,000 and 14,000 USD.

The PanoMaticLunar's closest relative is the PanoLunar Tourbillon. It's almost identical to its sister model but for one major difference: Instead of a small seconds dial, the PanoLunar Tourbillon has a hole that offers a view of the flying tourbillon beneath. A small hand on the tourbillon's cage takes over the job of the small seconds. Prices for this red gold watch with a matte silver-plated dial sit between 81,000 and 83,000 USD.

The PanoMaticInverse is a sight to behold. Its movement has been flipped, meaning components that usually face the back of the watch are now visible from the front. In this case, it's the striped three-quarter plate and hand-engraved balance bridge, including the duplex-swan-neck fine adjustment and the balance itself. The off-center time display, small seconds dial, and tempered hands all sit directly on the plate, while a date window occupies the 2 o'clock position. Depending on its condition, this treasure costs anywhere from 9,700 to 13,000 USD in stainless steel and from 18,500 to 21,000 USD in red gold.