De Bethune

Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune has been elevating the luxury watch market with their creations since 2002. Master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, and watch expert, David Zanetta, are the brand's founders. They have always strived to combine modern technologies with contemporary designs – all while retaining the flair of classic watchmaking.

In their endeavors to remain as independent as possible, De Bethune set about developing and producing important components at an early stage. One of their specialties is the balance wheel, for which they hold numerous patents thanks to the daring spirit to spearhead the use of materials like titanium and silicone. Other strong suits include sophisticated shock protection mechanisms, as well as tempering and polishing titanium.

De Bethune only produces a few hundred timepieces a year, making each watch a limited edition by default. Their portfolio ranges from classic to futuristic, and from simple two-hand watches to highly complicated timepieces with a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and/or tourbillon.

Regardless of the model, all De Bethune watches offer exquisite craftsmanship and exceptional designs.

You can buy a De Bethune watch on Chrono24 from around 40,000 USD. This price segment is mostly home to sports models in the DB22 and DB24 series. The distinctive timepieces in the DB25, DB27, and DB28 lines run between 50,000 and 110,000 USD. Watches with complications like a chronograph, GMT display, or perpetual calendar demand much steeper prices, coming in at around 160,000 USD on average.

Much larger investments are required for particularly rare models, such as the Dream Watche, or exceptional timepieces like the DB25 Maya – namely over 300,000 USD.

Since their release in 2009, the watches in the DB28 collection have become signature pieces for De Bethune, not least due to their futuristic design. The first element that catches the eye is the skeletonized lugs – patented by De Bethune as "floating lugs" – which frame the round case. They are mounted on springs at 3 and 9 o'clock, allowing the lugs to snugly wrap around the wearer's wrist.

As for the dials, there are two main types: more traditional configurations and those that are stripped back to just an hour and minute ring on the outer edge of the dial. In the former version, the dials are usually decorated with intricate guilloché detailing. De Bethune generally constructs the dials from titanium with a tempered finish.

The second version gives you a direct view of the movement. The balance is on full display at 6 o'clock, and, depending on the model, is made of either tempered titanium or silicone and fitted with a balance spring with a flat terminal curve. De Bethune holds patents for both mechanisms. The balance is held in place by a bridge with a special shock protection system. This system, known as the "Triple Pare-Chute," enables the watch to withstand centrifugal forces of up to 5g.

Another striking feature is the delta bridge attached to the two barrels. Its shape is inspired by the pointed arches of Gothic architecture, though it also bears a strong resemblance to the insignia of the science fiction series "Star Trek." Again, De Bethune mostly uses titanium for this element – sometimes tempered, other times polished, and occasionally with decorative finishing.

The standard version of the De Bethune DB28 also features a 3D moon pase display. The small rotating sphere is located below the balance wheel at 6 o'clock.

Prices for the De Bethune DB28 start at around 40,000 USD for the matt black zirconium edition. Comparable models made of titanium demand between 55,000 and 75,000 USD on Chrono24. When it comes to highly popular models like the DB28 Starry Sky, DB28 Sky Bridge, or DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, however, you should expect prices between 165,000 and 320,000 USD.

The watches in the De Bethune DB25 series have a more classic look than their counterparts in the DB28 line. This is mainly due to the design of the dials, which are embellished with various decorative finishes, guilloché detailing, and/or applied hour markers. What's more, they often feature Roman numerals as hour indices and traditional hands. De Bethune uses feuille or Breguet hands, depending on the model.

In addition to the two-hand versions, De Bethune also offers the DB25 with numerous complications. You will find several watches with De Bethune's 3D moon phase, but you can also opt for a model with a perpetual calendar, world time display, or second time zone. If you prefer something a little more unique, take a look at the DB25 Maya and DB25 Imperial Fountain. De Bethune equips the former with a Mayan calendar, while the latter boasts a traditional Chinese calendar.

The DB25 is available in a grade 5 titanium, rose gold, or white gold polished case. The lugs are skeletonized, though unlike the DB28, they are fixed to the case.

You can buy two-hand watches from the DB25 series on Chrono24 from around 55,000 USD, while prices for models with a moon phase display climb to around 80,000 USD. Watches such as the DB25 Starry Sky, DB25 Perpetual Calendar, and DB25 Maya top the price chart at between 100,000 and 200,000 USD.

The De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk combines elements from the DB25 and DB28. The case design complete with floating lugs and crown at 12 o'clock was borrowed directly from the DB28, while the dial configuration is reminiscent of the DB25, on account of the Roman numerals and railroad minute track hosted on a finely decorated background.

There are two versions of the DB27 available. The older DB27 Titan Hawk V1 has a central pointer date, whereas the Titan Hawk V2 doesn't display the date at all. Both models come in your choice of titanium or zirconium.

Depending on the version you opt for, you can find the De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk on Chrono24 for between 65,000 and 100,000 USD.

The Dream Watch collection is where you'll find De Bethune's particularly artistic watches. The Dream Watch 2, for example, is a DB28 which, in addition to a perpetual calendar and a 3D moon phase, offers a minute repeater operated using the bezel. The Dream Watch 4, on the other hand, is De Bethune's take on a modern pocket watch. The inspiration for the high-sheen titanium case comes from Apple's iPhone.

However, the Dream Watch 5 is likely the most fascinating model in the collection. Its case takes the delta shape often spotted on other De Bethune models, and strongly resembles a spearhead. The time is displayed on discs under sapphire crystal windows.

De Bethune only produces a handful of each Dream Watch timepiece, which is why they are difficult to find on the secondary market. If you do track down one of these exclusive watches, expect prices between around 175,000 and 340,000 USD.

De Bethune's early creations are hallmarked by a resolutely traditional design language. In fact, Denis Flageollet turned to classic pocket watches for inspiration. The rounded lug ends are a prominent detail that lend these watches quite an unusual character. Collectors are particularly fond of the DB1 models, De Bethune's very first watch, and the DB8 monopusher chronograph. That said, the De Bethune DB15 with a pointer date and 3D moon phase is also very popular, on account of these elaborate complications. Depending on the model, design, and its condition, watches from De Bethune's formative years can be found for anywhere between 12,000 and 120,000 USD.

When considering the watches in the De Bethune DBS collection, it's easy to spot their likeness to antique table clocks. This is mainly due to the lugs; De Bethune opted for the cone shape seen on older models for the lower lugs. The upper lug, on the other hand, is made from a single piece and is suspended to allow for movement. It also surrounds the crown at 12 o'clock, and thus takes on a second role as a crown guard. The dial is the same as that of the DB28, i.e., stripped back to only an hour and minute ring surrounding the movement, putting the delta bridge and balance in center stage. The 3D moon phase takes up position again at 6 o'clock. The titanium version of the De Bethune DBS costs around 26,000 USD. Watches with a gold or platinum case will set you back between 75,000 to 90,000 USD.

If you'd prefer something a little more sporty, the DB20, DB22, and DB24 models are worth a look. They have a multi-level bezel fixed in place with several decorative screws, and at 45 to 48 mm in diameter, offer great wrist presence. The timepieces are available in titanium, rose gold, or white gold, with prices ranging from 24,000 to 55,000 USD, as always depending on the exact model.

David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet founded De Bethune in 2002. The two had previously worked together at Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). While Flageollet was a fourth-generation master watchmaker overseeing the development of complicated movements at the time, Zanetta was busy establishing the L. Leroy brand, which is now part of the Festina Group.

While employed at THA, Flageollet and Zanetta hatched a plan to create a fully independent watchmaking company. The aim was to redefine watchmaking without losing sight of its roots. To implement their plan, they set up a workshop in the small village of L'Auberson near the French border, far away from the major watchmaking hubs in Switzerland.

Pierre Jaques joined the company as CEO in 2011. His held this position until 2015, at which point De Bethune began to struggle financially. In 2017, a private investment company led by Giovanni Perin took a stake in the organization and reappointed Jaques as CEO. As part of the acquisition, Zanetta sold his shares in the company and withdrew from the business completely. Flageollet, however, remains a shareholder and creative lead at De Bethune.