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Breguet 8918bb58864d00d
TOP
Breguet 8918bb58864d00d
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
Deluxe ( Asia ) Ltd
9
HK
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE  #...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE #...
R 173,682
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Omega Rare Vintage Black Dial Ref.2900 / 34.5 mm / Cal.266 / 1956
TOP
Omega Rare Vintage Black Dial Ref.2900 / 34.5 mm / Cal.266 / 1956
R 26,099
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
32
DE
Patek Philippe Calatrava Vintage 3429J Yellow Dial 3X signed
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Vintage 3429J Yellow Dial 3X signed
R 136,861
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Hublot Big Bang King  Min Repeater NEW 65% off
TOP
Hublot Big Bang King Min Repeater NEW 65% off
R 2,076,536
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
7
US
Panerai Luminor Submersible OP6527 Tritium
TOP
Panerai Luminor Submersible OP6527 Tritium
R 73,405
Seller
MASTROLORENZI S.A.S DI MATTIA MASTROLORENZI & CO.
47
IT
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ''Leo Messi"...
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ''Leo Messi"...
R 636,174
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
284
NL
Vacheron Constantin Calatrava/ Dress watch, seconds 6456 -Gold...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Calatrava/ Dress watch, seconds 6456 -Gold...
R 56,685
Seller
Dreamwatch - fine used watches
116
DE
Zenith Academy Force Constante 18.2210.4810-01.C713 limited 150
TOP
Zenith Academy Force Constante 18.2210.4810-01.C713 limited 150
R 464,814
Seller
TimeWorld
19
CH
Franck Muller GIGA TOURBILLON
TOP
Franck Muller GIGA TOURBILLON
R 2,683,352
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
14
MC
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon White Gold
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon White Gold
R 242,562
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
193
UK
Vacheron Constantin Rare Vintage Ref.4961 "Ultra-fine"...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Rare Vintage Ref.4961 "Ultra-fine"...
R 73,405
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
32
DE
Cartier VINTAGE1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel cord
TOP
Cartier VINTAGE1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel cord
R 243,154
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Audemars Piguet Concept CW1
TOP
Audemars Piguet Concept CW1
R 2,570,486
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
7
US
Hublot AEROFUSION BLACK MAGIC
TOP
Hublot AEROFUSION BLACK MAGIC
R 138,740
Seller
Artex AG
 
CH
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
TOP
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
R 320,421
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
47
UK
Zenith Chronomaster Vollkalender Mondphase 18k/750 Gold
TOP
Zenith Chronomaster Vollkalender Mondphase 18k/750 Gold
R 111,738
Seller
Dreamwatch - fine used watches
116
DE
Panerai Submersible Titanium OP6528 Limit.Edit.
TOP
Panerai Submersible Titanium OP6528 Limit.Edit.
R 94,611
Free shipping
Seller
MASTROLORENZI S.A.S DI MATTIA MASTROLORENZI & CO.
47
IT
De Grisogono Instrumento Uno
TOP
De Grisogono Instrumento Uno
R 1,623,061
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
14
MC
Chopard Happy Sport 36 mm Automatic
TOP
Chopard Happy Sport 36 mm Automatic
R 273,555
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
193
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master 16622 40mm Steel Platinum Pre-Owned 2012
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master 16622 40mm Steel Platinum Pre-Owned 2012
R 98,781
Seller
Click2Shop Limited
29
UK
Breitling 1970S EMERALD DIAMOND SET CONCEALED DIAL 18KT YG
TOP
Breitling 1970S EMERALD DIAMOND SET CONCEALED DIAL 18KT YG
R 208,418
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Ladies 169622 Yachtmaster - Platinum Dial / Platinum Bezel
TOP
Rolex Ladies 169622 Yachtmaster - Platinum Dial / Platinum Bezel
R 55,509
Free shipping
Seller
SD & CO LLC
18
US
Rolex 2008 Steel 40mm Sea-Dweller w/ Box, Paper, and Divers Kit
TOP
Rolex 2008 Steel 40mm Sea-Dweller w/ Box, Paper, and Divers Kit
R 113,866
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
90
US
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
R 28,514
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
114
NL
Chopard Linea Dóro Auto. 161169 -Gold 18k/750 -Serviced by...
TOP
Chopard Linea Dóro Auto. 161169 -Gold 18k/750 -Serviced by...
R 37,355
Seller
Dreamwatch - fine used watches
116
DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris GT 2 - NOS - New Old Stock
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris GT 2 - NOS - New Old Stock
R 128,866
Seller
Paradiso Luxury Srl
9
IT
Zenith EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON
TOP
Zenith EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON
R 607,628
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
14
MC
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle date
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle date
R 332,116
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
193
UK
IWC Portofino 2050 Romana Perpetual Calendar Platinum Full Set
TOP
IWC Portofino 2050 Romana Perpetual Calendar Platinum Full Set
R 154,966
Seller
Watches Management
7
IT
Chopard 1970s Chopard PAVE Diamond Lapis & 18kt YG Wristwatch
TOP
Chopard 1970s Chopard PAVE Diamond Lapis & 18kt YG Wristwatch
R 59,746
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Mens 116400 Milgauss - White Dial - Oyster Band - Mint...
TOP
Rolex Mens 116400 Milgauss - White Dial - Oyster Band - Mint...
R 79,185
Free shipping
Seller
SD & CO LLC
18
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger – Master Calendar 18kt Rose Gold...
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger – Master Calendar 18kt Rose Gold...
R 208,418
Free shipping
Seller
Feldmar Watch Company, Inc.
7
US
Movado Triple Calendar 18k Rose Gold
TOP
Movado Triple Calendar 18k Rose Gold
R 13,294
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
114
NL
Corum Lepine Taschenuhr mit Kette in Gold 18k/750 38mm
TOP
Corum Lepine Taschenuhr mit Kette in Gold 18k/750 38mm
R 32,461
Seller
Dreamwatch - fine used watches
116
DE
Omega Speedmaster Teutonic Mondphase Titan/Gold18K  very rare
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Teutonic Mondphase Titan/Gold18K very rare
R 130,416
Seller
T&N "Glücksschmiede" GmbH
454
DE
Girard Perregaux WW.TC ZEGG & CERLATI - LIMITED EDITION
TOP
Girard Perregaux WW.TC ZEGG & CERLATI - LIMITED EDITION
R 184,327
Seller
ZEGG & CERLATI
14
MC
Chopard Happy Diamonds PAPERS manual winding 0,15crt 18k 1980...
TOP
Chopard Happy Diamonds PAPERS manual winding 0,15crt 18k 1980...
R 26,083
Free shipping
Seller
vtgwatch.com
82
NL
Patek Philippe Pocket-Watch NEW
TOP
Patek Philippe Pocket-Watch NEW
R 112,554
Seller
Paradiso Luxury Srl
9
IT
Patek Philippe vintage 1950s Tear Drop 1509  Calatrava &...
TOP
Patek Philippe vintage 1950s Tear Drop 1509 Calatrava &...
R 134,777
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Omega Seamaster Winding Gold Cap Steel Mens Watch
TOP
Omega Seamaster Winding Gold Cap Steel Mens Watch
R 13,732
Seller
Watch World Star
127
UK
Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase Rose Gold 7787br
TOP
Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase Rose Gold 7787br
R 243,154
Seller
Feldmar Watch Company, Inc.
7
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox jumbo silver bicolor dial rose gold 1960
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox jumbo silver bicolor dial rose gold 1960
R 57,908
Seller
Watches Management
7
IT
Girard Perregaux Neo Bridge
TOP
Girard Perregaux Neo Bridge
Price on request
Seller
Zironi Oscar Srl
30
IT
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
R 250,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Rolex 18K/SS  DATEJUST Black Onyx Dial on Leather Band - Quickset
TOP
Rolex 18K/SS DATEJUST Black Onyx Dial on Leather Band - Quickset
R 49,951
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
90
US
Alain Silberstein Krono Bauhaus limited edition full set
TOP
Alain Silberstein Krono Bauhaus limited edition full set
R 94,447
Seller
TempoInverso.com / Gift and Communication LTD
UK
Giuliano Mazzuoli Limited Edition 015 / 365
Giuliano Mazzuoli Limited Edition 015 / 365
R 25,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Patek Philippe VINTAGE  PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
TOP
Patek Philippe VINTAGE PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
R 116,714
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
IWC Extremely Rare Mark IX (Mark 9) for German Military / 1943
IWC Extremely Rare Mark IX (Mark 9) for German Military / 1943
R 440,428
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
32
DE
Montblanc Star 4810
Montblanc Star 4810
R 24,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Sevenfriday M2-01
Sevenfriday M2-01
R 14,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Chronoswiss regulateur
Chronoswiss regulateur
R 45,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
AD MOUGIN DEUX MEDAILLES (French Mantle Clock) French Mantle...
AD MOUGIN DEUX MEDAILLES (French Mantle Clock) French Mantle...
R 18,063
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Breguet Marine Gmt Stainless Steel Silver Dial On Rubber Strap...
TOP
Breguet Marine Gmt Stainless Steel Silver Dial On Rubber Strap...
R 191,744
Seller
Feldmar Watch Company, Inc.
7
US
TAG Heuer Trackstar
TAG Heuer Trackstar
R 10,000
Seller
Private seller
ZA
Rolex Daytona  rose gold chocolate dial full set 2017  116505
TOP
Rolex Daytona rose gold chocolate dial full set 2017 116505
Price on request
Seller
TempoInverso.com / Gift and Communication LTD
UK
Rolex 18K/SS 36mm DATEJUST Black Diamond Dial - Quickset 16013
TOP
Rolex 18K/SS 36mm DATEJUST Black Diamond Dial - Quickset 16013
R 51,340
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
90
US
IWC Vintage Caliber 83 / 35 mm / Steel / Ca.1944
IWC Vintage Caliber 83 / 35 mm / Steel / Ca.1944
R 52,199
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
32
DE
Frederique Constant Ladies Automatic World Heart Federation NEW
TOP
Frederique Constant Ladies Automatic World Heart Federation NEW
R 18,758
Seller
BorysenkoWatch
UA
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph - Stainless Steel
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph - Stainless Steel
R 118,916
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
193
UK
Panerai Manifattura Luminor
Panerai Manifattura Luminor
R 226,900
Seller
Luxurytime South Africa
ZA

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer.